Make Your Computer UPS Last for Hours Instead of Minutes

It seems common sense to me, but maybe not all of them, all of my computers are on UPS battery backup.
One day I was frustrated when the Power flashed and immediately went out to buy a UPS.
Well, soon after, the power off took longer than the battery could keep my computer afloat.
I need a better solution!
I hope my UPS will last for at least 60 minutes in the event of a power outage.
I need more power!
My solution: car battery.
Material: rating is at least twice as many UPS as planned (
See step 8 for reasons). Wire (
12 or more;
Two different colors)
SolderHeat shrink tubbingcar battery with terminals on the top adapter that can go from car battery terminals to screw bars.
The wing nut is in the same size as the threaded rose curl terminals that will be installed on the screw bar.
Plastic case for your car battery fuse holder (radio shack)
30 amp fuse for bracket (any auto store)
Tools: ScrewdriversWire cuttersWire strippersSoldering irronscors (optional)
A hot gun or spare drill bitsI tries to power two computers (
Desktop and file server)
Two flat panel displays.
My total power consumption peak is about 500 watts. (yikes! )
Currently, I am running on two 300 W UPS (
Note: VA is not equal to WATTS.
Find the Watt level)
One monitor per computer.
Even though the two monitors are connected to the same computer, I need to distribute my power load more evenly to extend the battery life of my small UPS.
Note: After almost triggering a fire and destroying a UPS, I \'ve found a tough road where you need a UPS that is rated at least twice as much as you consume.
In this case, they cannot handle more than a few minutes of running time, but the battery dies before a problem occurs normally.
So now I know I need 500 watts and I need 60 minutes of power. .
This means: P/V = I500 W/120 V = 4.
16 am hours per hour (at 120 volts)
UPS batteries are usually 12 volts, but some are connected in series.
Take a look at your car first and make sure you don\'t need two car batteries.
So, let\'s say 12 volts, which means I need a battery with at least 41 volts after adjusting according to the voltage difference. 6 ampere hours. (
Yes I know UPS is inefficient but let\'s keep the math simple)
Unplug the UPS from the wall and unplug all the equipment from the wall.
Remove the screws that you have nothing to do and open the case.
If you are as lucky as I am, the battery will have terminals that you can slide off.
If not, cut the wire as close as possible to the battery.
Once you remove the battery, you will find what you see in pictureNOTE: pay attention to the polarity on the battery, and which wires when the polarity is.
The wires in the UPS are usually not long enough to reach where the battery is located.
We need to extend them to our car batteries.
Cut off the wire terminal (if any)
On the UPS wire.
At least 1/3/8 wires are stripped on the UPSStrip and at least 1/3/8 wires that we extend.
I helped me get a good connection with a metal curling edge, but this is optional.
Weld the wires together.
This solder joint needs to be able to handle high current.
We will get a lot of power through here and the UPS won\'t last long if we have a voltage drop.
After ensuring that the joint is welded well, place some heat shrink on it and seal it well.
Note: use colors that make sense to you so you can remember the polarity. Next, we need to leave a position for the wire and go to the car battery.
I drilled a hole.
Wire of any size can be used.
Add a strain relief device so you can\'t pull the joint you made and the PC board in the unit.
I just made a knot on each wire.
Next, pass the wire through the hole and carefully put the device back together.
Note: Remember the polarity!
Since this is a high current from a very high current source (car battery)
We need a fuse.
You want it to be as close to the battery as possible.
First, peel off the wires on the Fuse seat.
Place heat shrink on the wire.
Curl wire terminals or adapters of thread size on the battery holder to the wire. Then solder.
Nothing is complete before welding. Why solder?
It can generate electricity better.
The joint will not heat up and the voltage drop will not be so intense.
Then shrink the tubing.
On the other side of the fuse holder, peel off the wire, turn on the heat shrink, peel off the hot wire you recently added to the UPS and weld it together.
Once the contracted pipe is completed.
Next, use the same strategy as connecting to the on-line fuse holder to connect the curl terminal to the end of the ground wire, weld, and heat shrink.
Remember: Open the Heat Shrink tube before you finish.
When you\'re done, you should have something like this: Next, connect your battery terminal to the battery and then connect your wire to the terminal.
Insert the fuse in the fuse holder.
Open your UPS.
It will take a long time to charge the battery, but it will also last for a long time when there is a power outage.
Under this setting, my duration is about 1. 5 hours.
Be sure to put the battery in a covered plastic box, because if something goes wrong with the battery, you\'ll have as much acid as you can.
In addition, this will prevent you from dropping things and short-circuit the battery.
I learned in a difficult way. .
I spent a lot of money and almost got angry.
These UPS transformers are cheap.
They are not designed to run at 100% capacity over a long period of time (
For example, you will be able to use a battery of this size)
The transformer melted when I ran the UPS at 300 W for more than 30 minutes.
When I took out my infrared temperature timing, its reading was close to 400 degrees F! !
I had to redesign my system.
I chose two UPS with a rated power of 600 W but with 24 V (
2 12 V Series batteries).
I have two car batteries under my new settings, so I have more than four hours of backup capacity.